A collection of walks, discoveries, insights and pictures of exploring Dartmoor National Park
September 26, 2024
Stanlake (Stenlake) Farm
The remains of the historic farmstead at Stanlake in the Meavy Valley lies to the south of the B3212 and is ‘sandwiched’ between Devonport Leat (to the north west) and the River Meavy (to the south east) with a small stream flowing to the east. It is one of the oldest farmsteads in the Burrator watershed area, dating to at least 1281, when the first historical mention is of a ‘Richard de la Stentlake’, who appears to have been a tinner. The remains comprise of a complex array of earthworks interspersed with protruding walling suggesting (Gerrard) that the farm was both extensive and prosperous. Indeed, the farmstead timeline suggests occupation of around 650 years in its various guises. The farm appears to have extended to both sides of the River Meavy and will have had some of its land bisected by the Devonport Leat when it was constructed in the 1790s. There is evidence of several farmstead(s) in the vicinity which have had various forms of spelling including Stenylake, Stanelake, Steanlake, Stenlake and Stanlake. The name Stanlake is conjectured as being a ‘map makers’ mistake but this name is used throughout this post.
By the 18th Century, there appears to have been mention of four or five farmsteads, named; Higher, Lower, Middle, East and West Stenlake. However, the earthworks and ruins seen today and covered in this post are most probably Higher and Lower Stenlake dating from the 19th century with older Longhouse(s) evident within the site, which may explain the reason for ‘Higher’ and ‘Lower’. The last occupants of the farm were Mr and Mrs Gill who left in the early 1920s.
Bibliography
Sandy Gerrard – 1997 – Meavy Valley Archaeology Site Report No. 2 – Stanlake Farmstead
R.G.Haynes – 1967 – Survey (unpublished)
Paul Rendell – 2007 – Exploring around Burrator – A Dartmoor Reservoir
Eric Hemery – Page 21- Walking the Dartmoor Walkways
This sketch is based on the fabulous set of plans produced by Sandy Gerrard in his paper titled ‘Meavy Valley Archaeology Site Report No. 2 – Stanlake Farmstead’ dated 1997. The original survey conducted by Sandy Gerrard took place over four days in June 1996 using a plane table. His resulting plans show how complex a settlement of Stanlake Farm is. The earthbanks, drystone walls, holloways, banks and terraces contain a myriad of buildings, longhouses, structures, enclosures and gardens. The possible presence of two longhouses on the site, may represent dual occupancy at one time.The above table outlines the timeline of Stanlake, recorded by eminent Dartmoor Researchers such as Dr Phil Newman, Paul Rendell, Sandy Gerrard and Eric Hemery. In the late 18th and early 19th centuries there appear to be evidence that two separate families lived at Stanlake. Sandy Gerrard in his survey confirmed by the archaeological evidence, that there were likely to have been two dwellings within the farmstead at this time. He further records that the dual occupancy may have had earlier origins, since Higher and Lower Stenlake are mentioned. There may have originally been two separate farms, probably with different land holdings but sharing the same farmstead. Stanlake Farm lies to the east of the B3212, Dousland – Princetown road and can be accessed by a well defined track. There are a couple of car parks next to the B3212 which can be used if visiting the siteThe track passes through a large drystone wall (which probably marks the western edge of Stanlake farmland), from which point it enters an old drove road (hollow way). This was probably the route taken by Frank Hodge (of Bolts Store, Princetown) when he delivered supplies to the last occupants Mr and Mrs Gill in the 1920s. The west ‘drove road’ from the farmstead leads through the infield and survives as a narrow ‘hollow way’ as can be seen in the picture. The ‘hollow way’ has on both sides revetted banks. Continuing downhill with the ‘hollow way’ next to the more modern track, Stanlake farmstead coming into view. When Frank Hodge arrived at the farm he was given apple pie and scrumpy (ref: Rendell)Crossing Devonport Leat and entering Stanlake Farmstead. Devonport Leat was constructed in 1794, when the inhabitants at the farm were Thomes Leaman and Stephen Kivell. There is a ‘kink’ in the leat to the north and west of the farm, but the author suspects this was due to the hill contours as well as minimising impact on the farmstead buildings. That said, although buildings appear to have been avoided , the leat would have run across farm land separating it from the farmstead, thus having a major impact on day to day work. There are two bridges (this is one of them). On hot Summer days the Gill children used to enjoy splashing in the leat (ref: Hemery)When entering the site from the west, just below Devonport Leat, the first building to be seen is located at SX56931 70914. In the Gerrard survey, it is labelled as ‘Worker’s Cottage’. It was believed to have been inhabited as it contains the remains of a fireplace. It may have been a farm workers dwelling but this is just conjectureThe interior of the ‘Worker’s Cottage’ is recorded in Sandy Gerrard’s paper as being 7.8m by 4.6m, being defined by a drystone wall standing up to 1.4m high. There is evidence of a blocked doorway in the south wall.The date of the ‘Workers Cottage’ is unknown but most likely dates from later part of the 18th century and may have been occupied during the period when Thomes Leaman and Stephen Kivell were inhabitantsSide on view (south to north) of the ‘Workers Cottage’Close up of the walling of the ‘Workers Cottage’To the east of the ‘Workers Cottage’ is an enclosed area, labelled as ‘Garden’. It is located at SX56944 70918The ‘Garden’ is an enclosure which has no apparent entrance, suggesting that it was unlikely to have been built to restrain animals. The relationship between the ‘Workers Cottage’ and the ‘Garden’ is unknown. They may have been constructed at different timesOn the interior of the ‘Garden’ there is no visible walling, only a bank which reaches a maximum height of 0.7m. With the exterior walling being over twice this height (from lane below), this suggests the intention was to keep animals or people out rather than in. Therefore, the conclusion is that the enclosure was most likely to be a garden plot.The exterior edge of the ‘Garden’ enclosure is composed of drystone walling standing up to 1.6m high. Across and slightly down hill from the Garden enclosure along the small lane this gateway can be found, which leads to the original FarmhouseThe original Farmhouse is located behind the fallen tree.The last (19th century) farmhouse is now completely destroyed but the walls of this predecessor survives. It is possible that the last occupants in the 19th century farmhouse used this old farmhouse as a barn Evidence to suggest that this building (old farmhouse) may have been used as a barn into the 20th century is that on the 1906 OS (6 inch) map it is shown as still being roofedEvidence that this was originally a farmhouse relies on there being a fireplace within the western wall plus a staircase evident on the north west corner (ref: Gerrard)Of interest is that there are two lengths of walling abut this building, maybe suggesting its earlier construction and therefore focus for the farmstead (Gerrard)The much overgrown old Farmhouse is located at SX56966 70916To the west of the original farmhouse is a field centred around SX56944 70918. The walls are up to 1.7 metres highThis field / enclosure measures around 23 metres long by up to 16 metres wide. The surrounding banks are very wide at up to 4 metres.To the south of the field is a small structure. The rubble filled structure is also only a short distance from the old farmhouse at SX56959 70898This structure was still roofed in the late 19th century / early 20th century as indicated by OS maps of that period. Internally it measures 4.8 metres by 2.2 metresDue to its size and location, it is suggested that this was the outside lavatory. Other similar constructions can be found at Combshead and Middleworth Farms within the Burrator watershedTo the south of the lavatory is an enclosure and by the size of the walls suggests it was used to hold stockThe centre of this enclosure is around SX56964 70886It is thought the water supply to the site was brought through this area (see reedy area at bottom left side of picture). It this is the case, then the holding of stock here make have pre-dated this.To the north east of the enclosure is an area which has a substantial banking (and tree). The conjecture is that this was also a stock holding area before being used as a gardenThe centre of the ‘Garden’ is at SX56983 70900From the ‘Garden’ looking north, is where the the final farmhouse would have been located. However, except for a few small humps and bumps it is very difficult to discern that a building was ever hereLocation of the last farmhouse can be determined using old OS maps and by analysing a photograph taken by a Sydney Taylor in 1935 (after the site had been abandoned). Note: This is why the photograph is annotated as 1935 The last Stanlake farmouse in 1935. The roof of the building was still intact in the 1960s but finally collapsed during a long dry Summer. When R.G. Haynes visited in 1967 to survey the site the building had been demolished21st century (2024) view of where the last farmhouse was locatedThe 1935 Farmhouse transported into the 21st Century (2024)Collage of photographs where the last farmhouse would have been located. The centre of the last farmhouse is at approx SX56979 70900Another angle of the location of the old farmhouse (also annotated 1935 a per the date of the Sydney Taylor photograph)Track leading to the River MeavyIn a small field, beyond an old holloway and now largely obscured by a tree is where several staddle stones can be foundThere are at least seven staddle stones here, protruding from the now boggy ground. Staddle stones or steddle stones were originally used as supporting bases for granaries, hayricks, game larders etc.The staddle stones can be found at SX56993 70923The staddle stones here, most likely were used to lift a hayrick above the ground thereby providing protection from vermin and water seepage. This rather damp and waterlogged area to the north of the last farmhouse and to the west of the staddle stones is believed to have once been a yard. It may have always been wet and may well have needed drainingA location for the yard was measured at SX56984 70921On the north edge of the yard is a granite block into which a trough has been roughly cut. It is located at SX56981 70928It has been suggested (Gerrard) that this ‘trough’ may well be an unfinished tinners’ mould stone, but its location does not suggest this.To the north of the ‘Trough’ is an area which has been interpreted as containing a Longhouse and three outshuts. The photograph shows the relative location of the ‘Trough’ with two of these outshutsThe area to the east and south of the southern Longhouse (there are believed to have been two on this site) are where the three outshuts (or lean-too’s) have been interpreted. All three outshuts are defined by a series of earthbanks. Outshut B is located at SX56980 70930Outshut A is full of reeds and is located at SX56980 70930Outshut A runs parallel to the southern Longhouse. The photograph shows (top right) a clearly defined recess, one of two, which in all probability were cupboardsThe southern Longhouse as viewed from the west looking east (ie above the two cupboard recesses). The longhouse has been measured at 16 metres by 4 metresThe cupboard recessesThe best preserved recess (northern) measures approx 0.5 metres wide, 0.4 metres tall and 0.45 metres deepClose up of the northern cupboard recessClose up of the two cupboards. The cupboard without the lintel (southern) measures around 0.45 metres wide, 0.55 metres tall and 0.4 metres deepThe southern Longhouse is located at SX56970 70934. At the bottom half of the Longhouse is a hollow, which is likely to represent the position of the Shippon where animals were kept.Adjacent to the Longhouse is an enclosureThe bottom (east) of the Longhouse is truncated by walling beyond which is Outshut COutshut C contains some wall tumble and is located at SX56986 70933Outshut C location in respect of the boggy yard areaLooking west from Outshut C along the LonghouseThe enclosure next to (north of) the Longhouse is where more stock may have been keptThis enclosure is located at SX56973 70939To the west of the Longhouse and its adjacent enclosure are a series of small banks and terracesWere there once other features (e.g Buildings and enclosures) constructed amongst these small terraces and banks?View from the small banks and terraces looking northView from the small banks and terraces looking southAt the north end of the site are the substantial remains of a further Longhouse. It is cut into the hillside and measures around 20 metres by 8 metresIt is likely that half the ruins of an earlier Longhouse have been built upon here. To the west is a drystone single roomed building at SX56951 70954. The western most of two rooms might possibly have been built upon or be an adaptation of the original Longhouse. This structure was roofed as can be evidenced by OS maps from late 19th century / early 20th centuryStonecrop at the LonghouseThe eastern most portion is more likely to be part of the original structure and is located at SX56957 70955Inside the eastern most part of the LonghouseThe western part of the Longhouse (later construction) is around 5.2 metres by 4 metres. At its south east corner is a doorway. Amongst the undergrowth in the western building (still roofed at turn of 19th century), in the doorway an iron bolt can be found which must be the door pivot (SX56954 70949). One wonders what a roofed 5m x 4m gated building would have been used for? Perhaps a dog kennel, albeit it isn’t that close to the farmhouseA short distance to the north of Stanlake farmstead are some additional areas of interest, best visited in the Winter when the bracken is down. Aside the Hut Circles within Stanlake Settlement at least three other buildings can be foundField Barn next to Devonport Leat. The field barn is depicted on 19th century mapsThe field barn is located at SX57038 71022Footbridge over Devonport Leat near the field barnDifficult to discern in the Summer, but at this location which is described as being a Post-medieval rectangular drystone building. Location is SX57035 71069Gerrard records: “Internal dimensions 15m by 5.3m. Wall 2m wide, 1.7m high, sits atop an earlier rubble bank which may represent remains of a medieval longhouse”Also in Stanlake Settlement is another LonghouseThe Longhouse is located at SX56964 71172The interior of the structure measures 12m long by 3m wideAt the south east side of Stanlake, close to where the Stenlake Brook enters the River Meavy are these series of metal sheets which make to a dry (if not slightly wobbly) crossing of the river
